Northeast Florida · The First Coast Established MMXXVI Volume One · Number One
NORTH FLORIDA LIFE ST. JOHNS · DUVAL · NASSAU · CLAY
A live oak draped in Spanish moss against a bright sky
The Season Ahead

Fifteen minutes from your door, and you have never been

A wildlife sanctuary off Heckscher Drive where the tigers are fed after dark. A beach made entirely of fallen oaks. A distillery inside a hundred-year-old ice plant.

Browse the directory
Photograph by Arthur / Unsplash
IDiscoveriesPlaces you have driven past IIThe CoastBeaches, forts and trails IIIDiningWhere to book this week IVCalendarEvents and benefits
The Main Street Bridge over the St. Johns River at sunset
Main Street Bridge, Jacksonville · Trevor Neely / Unsplash
The Argument

Four counties that never agreed to be one place

Between the oldest city in the country and the Georgia line runs a stretch of coast written about as a single destination and behaving like nothing of the sort. Fernandina keeps Victorian hours. Ponte Vedra keeps its own. St. Augustine has been receiving visitors since 1565 and long ago stopped being impressed by any of them.

What they share is water, live oaks, and an unusual density of things worth doing that residents somehow never do. This publication exists to close that gap.

Charity and non-profit events are listed at no charge, and always will be.

Chapter I

Discoveries

Five places within an hour of most driveways here, and mostly unvisited by the people who live nearest them.

Downtown Jacksonville from the air

Jacksonville · Duval

Catty Shack Ranch Wildlife Sanctuary

A big cat rescue on the Northside — tigers, lions, cougars and leopards, every one of them arriving from somewhere it should never have been. Go for the night feeding. You hear them long before you see them, and the sound rearranges the evening.

In the directory
Castillo de San Marcos, St. Augustine

St. Augustine · St. Johns

St. Augustine Distillery

Inside a restored ice plant from the turn of the century, a few streets off the tourist run. Tours run daily, there is a tasting room, and the building would justify the trip even if nothing were being distilled in it.

In the directory
Marshland and waterway in the Timucuan Preserve

Fort George Island · Duval

Kingsley Plantation

The oldest surviving plantation house in Florida, at the end of a dirt road through the Timucuan Preserve. The tabby quarters still stand in an arc behind it. A serious place, and a quiet one.

A farm table set under lights in the evening

North Jacksonville · Duval

Congaree and Penn

A working farm and cidery minutes from downtown, with orchards to wander and dinner served under the oaks. Book well ahead. It fills, and it deserves to.

The Jacksonville skyline at twilight across the St. Johns River

Riverside · Duval

The Cummer Museum & Gardens

The collection is good. The riverfront gardens behind it are the reason people return — formal, deeply shaded, and looking straight across the St. Johns.

Features

Three stories worth the read

Longer pieces on the places that reward a second visit.

Downtown Jacksonville and the St. Johns River from the air

Duval · Wildlife

The tigers of Heckscher Drive

Catty Shack Ranch is not a zoo, and it will tell you so before you have parked.

Every animal on the property arrived because somewhere else went wrong — a roadside attraction closed, a private owner ran out of money or nerve, a breeding operation was shut down. The sanctuary takes them permanently. Nothing is bred, sold or traded. What that means for a visitor is an unusual closeness to animals that are done being moved around.

Go at night. The evening feedings run on a schedule the cats know better than the staff, and the sound that goes up when the carts come out is not something a daytime visit prepares you for. Bring a light jacket in winter; the Northside gets cooler than the Beaches, and you will be standing still.

In the directory
Castillo de San Marcos across the water, St. Augustine

St. Johns · Spirits

Ice, then bourbon

The building that became St. Augustine Distillery once kept the city's shrimp cold.

It went up as a power plant in 1905 and was making block ice by 1907 — the first commercial ice in Florida, 125 tons a day at its peak, feeding the shrimping fleet. After the industry collapsed in the 1950s it sat mostly empty until a group of local residents took a lease on it in 2011 and put stills where the ice cans had been. The tour takes about half an hour; the tasting at the end is not the point so much as the building itself — concrete, timber, high windows, and a sense that something industrial has been given a second, gentler job.

It sits a few streets off the tourist run, which is part of why it works. Walk there from the Castillo in fifteen minutes and you will pass through the parts of St. Augustine that residents actually use.

In the directory
Bleached driftwood on a shoreline

Duval · The Coast

A beach made of trees

Big Talbot Island is eroding, and the result is the most photographed shoreline in the county.

The bluff on the island's east side has been giving way to the Atlantic for as long as anyone has measured it. As it goes, the live oaks and cedars that grew on top of it fall into the surf, where the salt bleaches them white and the sand half-buries them. What is left is a beach littered with the skeletons of a forest.

It is not a swimming beach and there is no lifeguard. Go at low tide, when the most wood is exposed and the walking is easiest, and go early — the light is better and the photographers have not yet arrived.

In the directory
There is a beach half an hour from downtown Jacksonville made entirely of live oaks that fell into the surf and stayed.

Boneyard Beach · Big Talbot Island

The beach at Jacksonville from the air
Chapter II

The Coast

From the Georgia line to Matanzas Inlet

Photograph by Lance Asper / Unsplash

Duval

Boneyard Beach

Live oaks that fell into the surf and bleached white where they landed. Best at low tide.

Duval

Hanna Park

450 acres behind Atlantic Beach — a freshwater lake, fifteen miles of trail, and a mile and a half of ocean.

Duval

Little Talbot Island

One of the few undeveloped barrier islands left in Florida. Rarely a crowd.

Nassau

Fort Clinch

A Civil War fort at the top of Amelia Island, beach on two sides, a mile of oaks on the way in.

All parks, beaches and trails in the directory

Portfolio

Around the region

Photographed here, by people who live here.

Aerial view of the North Florida coastline
The coastline from aboveThe First Coast Lance Asper / Unsplash
Flagler College campus, St. Augustine
Flagler CollegeSt. Augustine Michael J. Vega / Unsplash
Driftwood on the shoreline at low light
Driftwood at low tideBig Talbot Island Zach Reiner / Unsplash
Sailboats at sunset off St. Augustine
Sailboats at sunsetSt. Augustine Kristin Wilson / Unsplash
Brick wall of Fort Clinch overlooking the water
Fort ClinchFernandina Beach Sonya Tyler / Unsplash
Dunes at Fort Clinch State Park
The dunesFort Clinch Sonya Tyler / Unsplash
Sawgrass at Fernandina Beach
SawgrassFernandina Beach Sonya Tyler / Unsplash
A wooden boardwalk over marsh wetlands at sunset
Boardwalk over the marshAt sundown Howard Walsh / Unsplash
Chapter III

Dining

Four rooms worth booking this week. The full list lives in the directory.

An outdoor dining terrace at night

Steakhouse

Cowford Chophouse

Downtown Jacksonville

Prime beef and a rooftop, in a restored 1902 building at Bay and Ocean.

An evening meal at a lively restaurant

Aegean

Alder & Oak

Brooklyn, Jacksonville

Coal grill, whole fish, Galician octopus, and Zorbas on the roof above.

A table set for dinner

Occasion

Salt

The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island

Five Diamond, four hundred wines, and a room that earns both.

Outdoor cafe tables

Worth the drive

Congaree and Penn

North Jacksonville

Dinner under the oaks at a working farm. Reservations essential.

All restaurants in the directory

The Resource

Every place we cover, in one directory

Restaurants, parks, beaches, museums and neighborhoods across four counties. Search it, filter by county, and find something for this weekend. Listings are free.

Open the directory
21Restaurants
15Parks & beaches
14Attractions
13Neighborhoods
Reader Ballot

Best of the First Coast

We are not going to tell you where the best steak on this coast is. You are. Nominations are open, and results publish with the winners' own account of why they earned it.

Best SteakBest SeafoodBest Breakfast Best PatioBest New OpeningWorth the Drive
Cast a nomination
Chapter IV

The Calendar

Openings, markets, races and benefits across the four counties.

Month
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Event title

Venue · City

Benefit
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Charity walk or run

Cause · Location

Month
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Market or festival

Venue · City

Benefit
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Fundraiser

Cause · Location

Month
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Opening

Venue · City

Month
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Event title

Venue · City

Running a race, a market, a fundraiser or an opening? Send it to us. Community and charity listings are free.

The Year

What comes around every year

The fixtures of the First Coast calendar. Dates shift; the month does not.

January

Nights of Lights

St. Augustine's historic district lit with millions of white lights, from mid-November through January.

March

The Players Championship

TPC Sawgrass, Ponte Vedra Beach. The island green at seventeen, and the best week of the year to be in St. Johns County.

March

Gate River Run

The largest 15K in the country and the national championship distance, over the Hart Bridge and back through downtown, San Marco and St. Nicholas.

March

Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance

One of the great collector-car shows in the world, on the fairways at the Ritz-Carlton.

April

Springing the Blues

Free blues festival at the Jacksonville Beach Seawalk Pavilion, three days on the sand.

May

Isle of Eight Flags Shrimp Festival

Fernandina Beach's founding festival, the first weekend in May, with the pirate landing on Center Street.

May

Jacksonville Jazz Festival

Memorial Day weekend on the riverfront downtown. Free, four days, and one of the largest free jazz festivals in the country.

Every Saturday

Riverside Arts Market

Under the Fuller Warren Bridge on the river. Artists, food, music, and most of Riverside.

October

Florida vs. Georgia

Away from Jacksonville while EverBank Stadium is rebuilt — Atlanta in 2026, Tampa in 2027, and back on the river in 2028.

October

Beaches Oktoberfest

Seawalk Pavilion, Jacksonville Beach. Northeast Florida's German weekend, a block from the ocean.

Know a fixture we have missed? Tell us and it goes on the list.

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The Friday Letter

One note each week: what has opened, what is on this weekend, and one place worth the drive. Free, and easily left.

Correspondence

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